February 26 February 27 February 28
Meutoh
awakened about six o'clock by drums. Looks like a ceremony. I get up, orchestrated by the percussion ... who happen to be beaters rice. Installed in homes, stick in hand to chase the chickens, married women - they wear the traditional headdress - prepare food for the day, some wearing an open jacket over their chest.
punch its weight on a board: the ram rises. Down from the board: the pestle falls into the mortar. Weigh on the board: the drumstick up. Down: he falls into the mortar. That the night black sun well up. I stroll into the village to the sound of this music archaic.
Clay littered with crap pigs, dogs, children. We understand why the feet are the impure part of the body, and why we live on stilts. From time to time a dog attacks me. People are wary - especially women, who fear that I take a picture. Nevertheless, overall, I'm fairly well tolerated because yesterday the chief's wife made me go round the village proudly show everyone that I had made the design of her cap.
Above the village, near the "door" - portico sculptures frightening that deter evil spirits - a large open space. While I take notes on the spot, a young girl who carries a baby on her back hangs in front of me and stares at me. The baby does not flinch.
Nailed on a large tree, three feet above the ground, a wooden triangle with three branches on either side that rise toward the sky and mobiles hanging. Above, a gantry supports long sticks placed crosswise. At right, a gallows about five feet, above which is wound a rope. While I'm thinking that the sacred is almost palpable, driven by the music of drums Rice women, the girl who looks at me piss standing under his sin.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Free Waldorf Patterns
Muang Sing
Six hours
deluxe breakfast this morning: slices of buttered bread! Home last night exhausted after three days of walking and hours of pick-up on a rutted track.
Met Passang villagers who decided to settle in Muang Sing and after a few months back in -
Apparition. As I write, a blank password on a bicycle. I watch it pass. He looks at me passing. Five minutes later, he sits next to me.
- Jess.
- Navy.
He said he slept in a village to Adima tonight. He offered little fried crabs. He said maybe rent a bike. I say spend a few days Adima precisely. Blabla. He goes to check the map and puts eyes on my marriage, long enough, and with a silent retreat. I do not give any explanation. Akha women will suggest embroidery. Jess does not buy anything. Blablabla. It is fine to have from everyone on his side.
- Maybe a coffee Adima?
- Yes!
And he disappears.
Midi Adima
Peace. A family fresh, interested, understanding. I am the only customer. From the balcony to see the village women from next door - Akha and Mien together - picking herbs for the evening meal, bent in the rice to dry. Maybe I'll go with them later to see what they pick.
I see Jess get far. He walks with a smile. He sits next to me. It remains long. There are no words but lots of smiles and the water drunk in the sun.
- You take me with you?
- Sure.
We share a motorcycle in the village where he slept last night. The bumps of the track pushing me against his back from time to time.
crossing a stream.
- Ready?
- No, but I trust you!
and cross I cling. Laugh get your feet wet. Life is simple.
Panja, where he slept yesterday. We spend some time there. Him to play kataw with young men. Me, engulfed by a tide of small children who improvise a portrait session. Some pose while others look on screen digital camera making comments. An old woman with bare breasts and falling sweeps in front of his door.
Children shout and gesticulate at our departure. You can hear them down the long hill.
Creek Crossing:
- Do you trust me?
- Yes! Laugh
have toes wet. Life is simple.
- If I'm not gone, I see you come back tomorrow, and if you're not there ... too bad!
Before going to bed, I watch the boss of the guesthouse to prepare two small mouse traps. It has all the pieces fruit in the center of a board and all around, coated with glue. While tinkering, we talk about everything and nothing. He said that until three years ago, villagers came knocking at the doors of bungalows to sell opium to tourists.
Friday, April 11, 2008
Customizable Waffle Iron
Adima
That night, the storm and rain on the bamboo house: the joy of being alive,
on Earth. Nobody knocked on my door to offer me opium.
the morning, the sounds of the creek. The song of a caged mynah, and screams coming
enigmatic forest. Already four years ago, I
well liked that they be monkeys. And what did not. One of the young women of the guesthouse
offers me a coffee - yesterday, she gave me the
sweet rice dough cut from the rocket festival. While I drink it
mounts a chair, wearing a saucer on his forehead before filing
on the altar of his ancestors. She took the opportunity to get the cups of water
that minds have already drunk and it can pour into the bowl of
mynah.
Yesterday, back from Jess, I was traveling really. I finally arrived somewhere
me. The movement took its meaning, its magnitude. And if
came while I'm on the go? If you're here and I also ... I'm leaving
anyway.
Eight hours to walk. And lonely mountain in the rain.
birds on the wing arising shrubs moist. The slippery path. Not a living soul
for several hours. Yet, traces of daily life
are everywhere: empty detergent boxes near a source
plantations of rubber, wood piles, barriers ... Coming in a deserted village. There remain a few shacks
rice, perched on their altars high stilts
a house. And everywhere on earth bare, utensils forgotten. When I
passes the house, the window pane opens slowly.
I expect a ghost. It may be there, invisible? I sit a long time
in a treehouse for my eating khao niao. Watch
rain, the desolation of the place. Where are they gone? Later in the mountains or closer
Muang Sing?
after this solitary morning, back on the roads of the plain. In the first
Akha village crossed a squatting woman pee in the middle,
the slope of the road. She unfolded the sin for stalling his arms around
holding it with his teeth. The body completely hidden, it is free
deal flows. An art.
New villages were built in touch-button, in a chaos of cultures
- Akha, Mien, Lolos, Laos, Hmong, Thai Dam ... - Which seems to fit together rather well
. I pause, huddled under my umbrella,
to eat a banana. On the way down to the villagers
field of sugarcane. The adults talk while walking. Children run to scare
buffalo, yet as big as elephants,
scamper.
The older women wear the costume mine: a large black turban decorated with embroidery
multicolored jacket and matching pants.
with red boa around their neck, which falls on the chest, they have a classy
. Hard to believe that it is the habit every day. When I looked
see them in the fields, I feel like I have traveled the
time. A powerful world, fragile, complex at the edge of the typhoon
"development." At the edge, very close to being caught, but still
balance.
Gradually, the strangeness by becoming familiar. It was France that
scares me now. Ten times a day, thinking he must organize the
way back. Back to
Adima. Until sunset, Akha women and mine
gather plants from the dry rice. Curved, they fill sacks
they spend on their front shoulder when he becomes
heavy. Suddenly, one of them uttered a loud cry
by departing from a tuft of grass. Still, it grinds the tassels of his red cap
a good time, before going back to work. The
sun coming down the mountains turn blue when I was this morning. In
sloping landscaped tractors and diesel cars are struggling feels
fifty yards. That small village girls who come to sell
few bracelets to tourists arrived earlier.
Is Jess came in my absence? In any case, it did not take the word
I had left for him. A link like a necklace of orange flowers
to offer the vat. The next day, everything is faded, you must begin
ephemeral. I decide to leave at dawn to Phouk Vieng.
Blouse Ladies Tailoring
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