Muang Sing
Six hours
deluxe breakfast this morning: slices of buttered bread! Home last night exhausted after three days of walking and hours of pick-up on a rutted track.

Met Passang villagers who decided to settle in Muang Sing and after a few months back in -
Apparition. As I write, a blank password on a bicycle. I watch it pass. He looks at me passing. Five minutes later, he sits next to me.
- Jess.
- Navy.
He said he slept in a village to Adima tonight. He offered little fried crabs. He said maybe rent a bike. I say spend a few days Adima precisely. Blabla. He goes to check the map and puts eyes on my marriage, long enough, and with a silent retreat. I do not give any explanation. Akha women will suggest embroidery. Jess does not buy anything. Blablabla. It is fine to have from everyone on his side.
- Maybe a coffee Adima?
- Yes!
And he disappears.
Midi Adima
Peace. A family fresh, interested, understanding. I am the only customer. From the balcony to see the village women from next door - Akha and Mien together - picking herbs for the evening meal, bent in the rice to dry. Maybe I'll go with them later to see what they pick.
I see Jess get far. He walks with a smile. He sits next to me. It remains long. There are no words but lots of smiles and the water drunk in the sun.
- You take me with you?
- Sure.
We share a motorcycle in the village where he slept last night. The bumps of the track pushing me against his back from time to time.
crossing a stream.
- Ready?
- No, but I trust you!
and cross I cling. Laugh get your feet wet. Life is simple.
Panja, where he slept yesterday. We spend some time there. Him to play kataw with young men. Me, engulfed by a tide of small children who improvise a portrait session. Some pose while others look on screen digital camera making comments. An old woman with bare breasts and falling sweeps in front of his door.
Children shout and gesticulate at our departure. You can hear them down the long hill.
Creek Crossing:
- Do you trust me?
- Yes! Laugh
have toes wet. Life is simple.
- If I'm not gone, I see you come back tomorrow, and if you're not there ... too bad!

Before going to bed, I watch the boss of the guesthouse to prepare two small mouse traps. It has all the pieces fruit in the center of a board and all around, coated with glue. While tinkering, we talk about everything and nothing. He said that until three years ago, villagers came knocking at the doors of bungalows to sell opium to tourists.
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