How Good Is Carnation Breakfast

February 21 February 22

Luang Nam Tha
the night, a downpour of water from the mountains around. And this morning the
gray curtain of rain. I listen to the twang of speakers who provide information
official regime. I do not get up.
Close, so close to the people of the forest, not knowing how to walk up
them, or even if I really want them to meet me, me.

Around noon, it always rains. Too bad I'm leaving myself a bike ride, under
my beautiful red umbrella.

Afternoon
I find it ironic the people here. Almost cynical at times. Perhaps because
Luang Nam Tha became a tourist town, leaving many treks and other
"rafting to meet local ethnic minorities
and wildlife." Two

time here, Laos mocked my efforts to make me
understand their language. That would have made me laugh too if I was not depressed by
rain.

This morning, I ask the direction of the market in a travel agency:
- Talat?
- Thailand? You want a visa for Thailand?

Later, in a restaurant:
- I could have a bus?
- A bus? Now?
- Yes, a bus, to eat.
And I mime the act of eating with chopsticks.
- A bus. (I mime) Bus. (I mime) Bus? (I mime)
His eyes light up.
- You want chopsticks!
He refrains from laughing at me, but took refuge in the kitchen when I hear
tell the story of the stoves. General laughter
behind the bulkhead. Hopping mad, I suddenly see this trip as
absurd. What am I doing here? Why do they make fun of me
?

Party for sixteen days, it's the middle of the journey, battery.
critical moment where we can no longer go where the wind carries. Time to remember that we are free
requires effort. As daily life, the journey can become a routine
, with time limits, borders. With the rules, a
hygiene, a precise organization of the seven kilograms of possessions.
the middle of the journey must start planning. We must make
count the number of days required to reach the plane back. It
starts reading the guide and it is estimated how much remains under:
if more than half, we pay a "real" hotel to rest
few days. It raises the question of extending the visa. Or that of a
leaving the country before its expiration, and therefore that the visa of the country follows.
And etcetera.

Sitting on the edge of the river, I think about all this.
tiny bird in the vines. Pump motor that goes back to the water gardens. So
more engines and power four years ago. Coupling
yellow butterflies in flight. Lazy clouds, wet air.
I want my next trip is done at walking pace, with unlimited duration or
border ... Come to Laos from Marseille to walk?

Cycling between the rice fields. Without much gaiety to what a strange vision
draws me into the woods. And not only changes my day, but
also the meaning of this journey.